Takayama and the UNESCO listed villages of Ainokura and Shirakawa-go

We’ve tried to have Japanese meals of an evening and we’re yet to be disappointed. Western breakfasts at the hotel are substantial so we are more than happy to have a lighter evening meal…and so far they have been tasty, interesting and different. There is no shortage of eating establishments in Japanese cities…from bars with benches to tiny, dingy little places catering for local businessmen ….. and last night we found a Gyukatsu place, that was lots of fun.

Hard to say….easy to eat!

Our journey to Takayama in the mountains required a fairly tight change of trains at Toyama (read 12 minutes) to catch the Haida Express…a more local train than the Shinkansen. I was a bit concerned, but it all went smoothly and after rushing to the gate found a “few “ others lined up for the same train….all travellers! But we enjoyed the rural scenery and mountains covered in pines and Autumn colours with aqua, fast flowing rivers rushing through gorges and pebbly river beds.

Did I say that the Shinkansen is fast!

The Haida Express is slower but panoramic

At last we are in more remote areas of Japan…the mountains.

Takayama is smaller but still a city, and our taxi driver pointed out the “Old Town” as we headed to our digs…this time (and for the experience) a Japanese Ryoken or guest house. There are tatami mats over all the floors (so shoes off at the door - heels backwards) staff dressed in traditional garb and the corridors are low with screens separating rooms. It’s very traditional…which is why we elected to go there ….with special socks and “pyjamas” (called samue) to wear around the place and special slippers to go in the bathroom. (that may be an issue in the middle of the night!) We didn’t partake of the communal bath though.

Hoshokoku ryoken located just up from the old town.
Staff all dressed up, shoes off at the door and much bowing and nodding. 

This was part of a park 5 minutes up the hill from our ryoken.
We were told by a shopkeeper (that Wendy made friends with and bought nice stuff from)
that the locals go up there to drink beer and eat grilled chicken skewers from a little cafe.
So we did as well!

Wendy actually found a classy little piece of woodwork to enhance her bathroom.

Our heads were on swivels trying to take it all in.

And there were tourists…..quite a few but not outrageous.

I went back in the evening when the crowds were gone.
It was harder to get shots…but I reckon that they looked better.

Just a streetscape. So old style Japanese!

I think this is a small Ryoken down a  side street.
I was taken with the beautiful maple in the front courtyard.

The Japanese like to light their gardens and features at night.
I think it looks speccy!

The accommodation deal we had includes dinner and breakfast in traditional little eating rooms just for two, with privacy screens that make for quite intimate dining. The ryoken places a greater emphasis on a more authentic traditional experience for their guests…..and  our first meal there was just spectacular. Presentation is paramount in Japanese cuisine and the Hoshokaku Ryokan was really authentic. Waitresses dressed in traditional kimanos  served the courses like a degustation with elegance and poise….which is more than I can say about me in those Pyjamas! All in all it was very Japanese , yes with fish dishes that I did try…..a little. We were really glad we chose to experience this aspect of Japanese culture…..but really glad we also opted for traditional Western beds and toilet!

Second night’s dinner…Haider beef hot pot with veges. It was really very good…and filling.

Not much left!

This was entre and yes I ate sushi 🥴

First night’s dinner….fish on a griddle…but other things as well.

But a central theme of coming all the way up to the mountain region of Japan was to experience some of their preserved history and culture. Hence the choice of a ryoken stay…..but also our organised group tour of the UNESCO listed sites of Ainokura and Shirakawa-go. These villages are feudal style villages…rural, agricultural and rustic. They have some mod cons but essentially have preserved the architecture and ways life from  the time of the shoguns.

So after a breakfast of raw fish, tofu and green tea 🥴 (beautifully presented however) we set off  to those famous feudal villages….but not before deciding that we might skip the traditional Japanese breakfast the following morning and opt for croissants and coffee at the station instead. Traditional dinner is one thing but sardines for breakfast is not a welcome sight or experience!

As I mentioned in an earlier post, Autumn is a bit delayed this year in Japan but when we got into the high mountains it was in full swing….and brilliant colour. Japan is a very urbanised country but there are wild areas also and the mountains we travelled through were just ablaze with colour….mostly birch yellow but also splashes of red contrasted with the dark green of the pines. It is not unlike the high alpine areas of Europe….and quite mesmerising for an Australian.

Ainokura is a pretty, small and  preserved working village with thatched houses and people who still work the land. It is a bit out of the way and not many tourists visit there which makes it quite special. Shirakawa-go however is still a working village where people live their normal lives….. but the locals have tapped into the tourist trade and it is much more commercial…but still interesting. 

It was a real treat to be able to glimpse a part of their culture, history and beautiful Autumnal landscape.

On the way out of Takayama we were treated to some spectacular scenery.

I climbed to the hill to get a view of the village. Totally worth it.

They cultivate every available plot of soil.

The suspension bridge across to the village across the wide, rocky snow melt rivers reminded me a bit of Nepal although without the “beasts of burden” causing them to rock and sway.

Gorgeous time of year…specially up here.

There were mountain trout in those drains…..damn big ones!

It a was quite a long day for a couple of retirees (and there are a few about over here) but after another magnificent traditional meal (this time Haida beef hot pot) in our Japanese “pyjamas” we have turned our attention to the next leg of our journey…..Hiroshima.

And we have our fingers crossed that our bags will be there when we arrive!