Thursday, 13 October 2016

Homeward bound - Senlis, Singapore, Sydney

It seemed no time at all before we were back doing the "airport security ritual" at St Petersburg International ....you know put the bags in the x-ray machine with all your personal belongings then get all your gear off for a pat down, put it back on, then do it again...and then again for good measure.
We don't know where the eight days in Russia went, but if "time flies when you're having fun" has any truth in it...we really had a great time in Russia.

The flight to Paris on Air France was fine and we were pleased to have a couple of days R&R in Senlis, a small town about 20 minutes North of the airport. We stayed in a charming 17th Century manor house ...yes spiral  stairs again, but a beautiful large room with heavy wooden beam ceilings, a beautiful garden view and fitted out with all the mod cons.




We had an interesting experience on the first night which reinforces for us that stereotypes can be misleading....really!
We were lost (I know, not for the first time this trip) in dark lanes in the centre of Senlis, looking for a nice restaurant recommended to us, when we were rescued by a lovely French lady and her young daughters. In order to ensure these hopeless Aussies got to their destination, they went out of their way to walk us there, to the door. Small kindnesses...much appreciated and certainly not forgotten. ....and the food and wine were also worth getting lost for!!!

We met up with Cindy for lunch...her visa application is still being processed but she is looking forward to coming to Australia before the Winter really bites here in France.

In our wanderings around the township we came across a funny little shop (closed unfortunately) but, ....you wouldn't believe it....it was full of cats! We counted nine of them in various positions of repose.

Cindy and me outside the "cat shop"...and you should've seen the fur-balls gathered in the corners of the windows.  
It looks like, from this angle, that my shirt must have shrunk in the suitcase!

How much is that pussy in the window?

It was also market day in Senlis which was a great experience with just locals and no tourists. Twice a week with such a range of foods...they sure have the "Joie de vivre" these French.


Food, glorious food.

We were really pleased to have had time to wander around the village, soak up some French ambience and enjoy some French wine and cuisine before resuming the long trek back to the antipodes. Sort of therapeutic after our hectic schedule of the weeks before.

Bike in a lane. They drive cars through these.

We know it takes longer, but breaking the journey really works for us. Thirteen hours, a long layover and then another eight hours is pretty hard on the body so we were pleased to have a nice hotel room in Singapore to rest up in.......and seeking out nice Asian food is no hardship really.



The Singapore Harbour light show projected from the Marina Bay Sands Hotel with a sea of container ships at anchor in the background.

Well, that's our 2016 "Battlefields Tour" all over.....and the subtitle of "World Hotspots Tour" didn't really affect us much at all....well part from a bit of an extra police / security presence in Turkey!

It's been an "excursion" we won't soon forget, a variety of experiences and highlights we'll reminisce over for years to come.....but until the next one....over and out!


Sunday, 9 October 2016

St Petersburg - Palisades to Palaces

The fast train, the Sapsan, is very comfortable indeed...especially in Business Class....with the cabin staff plying us with food and drink as the Russian landscape (lakes, pines, yellow birches and funny little dachas) slides by the window at about 230kmh.

View from the galley car of the train.

In four hours we were in the heart of what was the capital of Russia and the Romanov Dynasty's home city for three hundred years, and shortly after ensconced in our magnificent hotel, the Grand Hotel Europe.

Silver service breakfast...again.

St Petersburg was Peter the Great's "window on the west" and our first day was dedicated to finding out all about his achievements and his modernisation of Russia technologically, industrially and socially. After visiting Europe and spending time in England he saw that his country was lagging in the areas that made the European nations powerful. He moved the capital from Moscow to an empty swampy region in the north and had a capital city built in 1703. It took  nine short years, and at great cost in lives to the poor serfs who were "press ganged" into providing the labour for this mammoth task.
He took inspiration from Amsterdam, which is in a similar setting, and the planning and europeanisation of the city is clearly evident with long wide avenues radiating out from a central point and with beautiful buildings designed by renowned Italian architects lining the boulevards. 

It has a long history of development, destruction and change with the WWII 900 day siege of the city probably the most well known. It has been named St Petersburg to Petrograd ( more Russian sounding after WW1) to Leningrad until the 1990s when it returned to its original name ...which the locals seem to prefer.

View across the Neva from the island of the fortress- Hare Island.


Canals, streets and boulevards.

One street we went down was exactly 220 metres long and 22 metres wide and 22 metres high, the ratio to make it look like a hall in a building...and it did.  He set up a large navy, he insisted that his noble class wear Western dress and he brought in a "beard tax" to have the populace clean shaven and more like Europeans. I guess he couldn't know that throwing your weight around when you have absolute power would all end in tears for the family a couple of hundred years later.


On our tour of the city we saw where Tchaikovsky and Dostoevsky lived and where Hitler intended to have his Victory Banquet after his Russian campaign.......the Russians are happy to point out that it was a bit "premature". We saw the admiralty and all the fine palaces that lined the canals and River Neva, and where he built the Peter and Paul fortress containing the beautiful cathedral which houses the remains of all the Romanov Czars including Nicholas II. Their history is one of opulence, wealth and power but also of assasination, murder and intrigue.


The entrance to the fortress with the Romaov symbol, the two-headed eagle.

The cathedral in the fortress containing the remains of 300 years of the Romanov Czars 


Everything Peter the Great did was on a grand scale....including the cathedral for his family crypts. The spire was camouflaged with grey paint during the siege so that German artillery couldn't use it as a reference point.

We visited the Church on Spilt Blood...built where Tsar Alexander II was assisinated with a bomb (after six attempts over a number of years) and wandered past any number of palaces, museums and theatres in the district of our hotel.


The Church on Spilt Blood.


The interior dome 61 metres high as he was 61 when assassinated and all tiled in mosaics which the Russians love. The detail is very impressive.

Galena, our guide lived through the Stalin era and was not shy about telling us what it was like. She lost family members to Siberia in purges, she lived in a communal apartment with ten other families...and Russians apparently are not  friendly to each other... .a hang over form the time of great suspicion. It was difficult to grow up then, no food in the shops...very severe requirements to move around and constant fear of the KGB which she says stands for Kind, Generous and Beautiful! 
She showed us where the KGB building was/is where Putin went as a 14 year old to ask how he could become a member of the KGB. The locals say that from that building you can get a "very good view of Siberia!!!" Many who went in never came back. Actually we found that there is a bit of a sense of humour in the Russians....but you have to dig...and it is somewhat black.

There are over 600 palaces in St Petersburg and many of them were pointed out to us during our touring around. But the Winter Palace in the City and the Summer Palace in a small town about 30kms out of the city called Pushkin, after the poet, are the "statements of obscene opulence" we visited and spent many hours exploring with our guide...who took no prisoners in the lines ....or if we "missed" a vital fact or piece of information!

The place itself on a grey cool day. Over 40kms of valuable paintings including Rembrandts, and vast collections of priceless jewels ....as well as a preserved  Egyptian mummy over 10,000 years old.
They like colour and gold.......lots and lots and lots of gold!

The view from the balcony overlooking the Parade Square.




These palaces were built by Catherine the Great ( a German princess who had her husband the Czar murdered so she could have the throne) and extended by Elizabeth II her successor who was known as Elizabeth the Spender! (She left only 3 roubles in the treasury when she died)

The Summer Palace is as large but surrounded by acres of gardens and lakes which make the whole town of Pushkin a beautiful park. It has been, and continues to be, restored after the German forces trashed it while they occupied it as a base to shell the city. It really was left as a wreck and the restoration is a credit to Russian persistence, commitment and skills....besides which it is a very popular tourist attraction......cha ching!



The ball room


An entertaining area...one of about 1000 rooms in the palace.

The man made lake.



Hasn't quite got the view of our "Summer House"!

We saw churches and palaces galore. We saw where the last Czar Nicholas II, and his family Alexandra and the daughters and his haemophiliac son retreated to when things were going "south" for the dynasty and the October 1917 revolution was brewing.


Nicholas II, unlike Peter the Great and successors up to him, was a Slavophile and he had this church built in the traditional style for his family to worship in. The trees behind are oaks planted by Nicholas & Alexandra in about 1914.

We saw the district that the mystic "healer" Rasputin lived in and the monastery that he was buried in after he was murdered and dropped in the frozen River Neva. Alexandra wanted him nearby even in death to help her sick son. It must have been a very strange world that the last Royal Romanovs inhabited.



The monastery near the Romanovs where Rasputin was buried. They had to exhume and cremate him as people were coming from all over Russia to steal the earth on his grave as a healing treatment for ailments.

Our senses in Russia have been overloaded to the extreme. Visually, aurally, historically and culturally it has been a wonderful, fleeting visit to this country that Churchill described as " a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma"

So glad we came!








Friday, 7 October 2016

Moskba (Moscow)

There is a certain "pinch me" factor when you find yourself having silver service breakfast in front of huge picture windows framing a view of The Kremlin across the street.


It is a magnificent building in its own right but together with St Basil's and very wide boulevards lined with the Bolshoi Ballet building, the ex-KGB headquarters and various other examples of fine 18th and 19th Century architecture.....Moscow is an impressive city indeed. It is named after the Moskva River, which it straddles, and has been a settlement located on an ancient trading route since before Roman times. But what strikes you is that there are no skyscrapers in the centre of town, the CBD. There are large, impressive, multi storey buildings but they don't form the "canyons" which block the light and view of many modern cities like Sydney or New York.


Our first day's sightseeing was spent in a van and on foot as we attempted to take in the ambitious list of "must sees" without actually breaking into a trot. Apart from the sights themselves, we were regaled with information and historical facts by Kata, our guide, until some of us were crying out for mercy.........in a nice way. Actually I think all of us discovered "our limits" in terms of the amount of information that can be absorbed, let alone retained by mere mortals in a day.

On our travels around the city we found that the Russian people have a religious dimension at the core of their history and culture. Even though, Kata told us that only about ten to twenty percent of Russians regularly practise their religion, and that religion was actively discouraged for most of last century by the government in power, it is impossible not to be impressed by the way the churches and religious sites were protected in secret and have since been restored and rebuilt, in many cases solely with private funds. Small and large churches with their onion or ancient helmet shaped domes are common around the city and other precincts.

The Moscow Cathedral rebuilt nearby the Kremlin after the original was destroyed

We visited and saw many places and points of interest ( including a huge famous food store from the 1920's nicknamed "The Place of Gluttoney") 


....but three hugely impressive sites for me were:-

1) Red Square and The Kremlin. As a boy of the 1950's this place was the epicentre of the Soviet Union and never in my wildest dreams did I think I would ever be standing right smack in the middle of it, (standing where the parades of Soviet military might passed in front of Kruschev, Brezhnev and Stalin ....taking the salute) and looking straight at Lenin's tomb....amazing.

The Russian Museum of History at the opposite end of Red Square to St Basil's.


Lenin's tomb. Only open at certain times.


2) St Basil's Cathedral. The iconic, multi-coloured, onion-domed icon of Moscow.

It is actually eight small, narrow, tall churches clustered around a central one.


3) The famous 1930's Art Deco metro stations, with their unique style of mosaics, sculptures, marble and chandeliers. There are over forty of these with different themes for each station and used just as we use Central and Town Hall in Sydney these days.


Mosaic tiles on the domed roof....dozens of these lining the length of the platform.

Our second sightseeing day centred around the Kremlin and continued at the pace we had experienced the day before. Kata's stamina and grasp of historical facts about just about everything Russian was impressive...astounding really. A Kremlin is the centre of any major Russian town in old times, the fortified part to protect the populace in times of war...but this is "The Kremlin", the seat of Sovie power for much of last century and still the seat of Russian government today. There are a number of churches and chapels where the Czars and their families worshipped and where most of the royals are interred in crypts and we explored the main areas within the walls (six to nine metres thick in some places) keeping strictly to the path and the crossings...no wandering off! 

The largest canon in the world at the time....never fired in anger

We saw where their legislature meets and where the President is sworn in, 


Canons confiscated from Napoleon after he was defeated in 1814. The 1812 invasion by Napoleon figures very highly in Russia's history and psyche.

....but that was all leading to The Armoury Museum the home of thousands of relics and artefacts and valuable items from  about the 10th Century to recent times.......sorry, photos forbidden.

There were vestments and coronation robes ( never in my life have I seen or had explained to me in such detail the intricacies of embroidery!), thrones, sceptres, crowns, any number of gold, silver and platinum statues, fountains and serving plates ...... you really would need to visit to appreciate the depth and breadth of this collection started by Czar Peter the first....or was it the second? There was a whole section of Faberge Eggs and clocks, carvings and trinkets. There were dozens of gaudy Royal coaches and a section devoted to guns, swords, armour and various other nasty implements of war....two huge floors of it. Our brains hurt!

As part of the deal we were treated to lunch at the Cafe Pushkin, a high end restaurant with waiters in uniform and very plush surroundings. It was an enjoyable experience and the borscht was surprisingly nice but the Beef Stroganoff not as good as Wendy's! We learned much from our tour and guide...but were also thankful for an afternoon off to explore a bit for ourselves.

An evening of light shopping for souvenirs and things, and trying to get some night shots in Red Square...the weather was very difficult for photos with mist and rain, so an early night with stomachs still full after Cafe Pushkin brought our Moscow visit to a close ......and the Sapsan fast train to St Petersburg the next chapter in our travels in Russia.


From tanks to tourists. Red Square on a rainy night

Chuffed to be here!

We really liked Moscow, a modern vibrant city with lots of life and energy...which surprised us somewhat...and were left wanting a bit more time there...which is a good way to leave.



Tuesday, 4 October 2016

To Russia with l......uggage

Our domestic flights in Turkey, and our flight to Moscow have been with Pegasus, a low cost airline...the type where you pay a low fare and then pay for all the "add-ons"...and it has been quite an  OK experience.....for short flights.

We got back to our Hotel near the airport at Istanbul and were stopped by police and a riot vehicle for a passport check outside the hotel compound. Everything was OK but we did notice a few extra police and guards around the place which made us wonder. 

Checking in at the lobby I retrieved a live bullet from my luggage that I had been saving, trying to think of a way of getting it home. I left it in my bag that we stored at the hotel (to lighten our check-in amount - budget airline!) while we were in Cappadocia .....to give me time to try and organise something. It was a momento from our Gallipoli visit and I really wanted to keep it, but the Turkish Post Office wouldn't send it for me, the clerk in DHL said it was against company policy to transport live ammunition ( bit of a cop out I thought) and the people at the front desk didn't want a bar of trying to ship it to Austraia. I was stymied, but  a couple of youngsters on the desk took a shine to it, particularly when I explained its history.....a hundred year old shell from the Dardenelles campaign...still with caked mud on it, so I gave it to them. The last I saw of it was the two of them fighting over which one would keep it......and I think the young woman was winning!
It was a Turkish bullet after all, so it probably went to a good home....but I really would've liked it for my study at home!

It wasn't this one...but it looked a bit like it....without the mud.


While all this was going on, it transpired that the hotel was fully booked with two conferences ( it is a very nice hotel and clearly well protected) and there was a problem with the two rooms I had booked in March. Would it be OK if we all shared the "Presidential Suite" for the night instead? Two master bedrooms with ensuites, a lounge room, dining room, sauna, Turkish bath, wall to ceiling mini bar and huge balcony....for the same price....well....OK....if it would help the hotel out. 




We decided that we might "treat ourselves" as well and get room service dinner delivered.....so we didn't have to leave this sumptuous suite.
Some upgrade that one!

We have been blessed with the most beautiful weather in our travels to date. For over three weeks and all through Europe and in Turkey we have had sunny and warm (unseasonally warm according to the locals) perfect travelling weather. We were actually beginning to resent carrying our Winter things...the coats and jumpers we thought we would need all the way in September/October over here......until now. Touch down at Moscow introduced us to Autumn colours, drizzle, low cloud and a top of 10 degrees....Katoomba weather!

Our hotel is opposite the Kremlin and just down the way from St Basil's Cathedral...and when we went to explore the surrounding area to find dinner we found the whole area is crowded with people, and it is lit up like a Christmas tree. We agreed over dinner that we didn't know what to expect from Moscow...but so far, and by the quality of our hotel....it appears to be a place we could really enjoy.



Looking forward to our Soviet Sojourn.