Takayama and the UNESCO listed villages of Ainokura and Shirakawa-go

We’ve tried to have Japanese meals of an evening and we’re yet to be disappointed. Western breakfasts at the hotel are substantial so we are more than happy to have a lighter evening meal…and so far they have been tasty, interesting and different. There is no shortage of eating establishments in Japanese cities…from bars with benches to tiny, dingy little places catering for local businessmen ….. and last night we found a Gyukatsu place, that was lots of fun.

Hard to say….easy to eat!

Our journey to Takayama in the mountains required a fairly tight change of trains at Toyama (read 12 minutes) to catch the Haida Express…a more local train than the Shinkansen. I was a bit concerned, but it all went smoothly and after rushing to the gate found a “few “ others lined up for the same train….all travellers! But we enjoyed the rural scenery and mountains covered in pines and Autumn colours with aqua, fast flowing rivers rushing through gorges and pebbly river beds.

Did I say that the Shinkansen is fast!

The Haida Express is slower but panoramic

At last we are in more remote areas of Japan…the mountains.

Takayama is smaller but still a city, and our taxi driver pointed out the “Old Town” as we headed to our digs…this time (and for the experience) a Japanese Ryoken or guest house. There are tatami mats over all the floors (so shoes off at the door - heels backwards) staff dressed in traditional garb and the corridors are low with screens separating rooms. It’s very traditional…which is why we elected to go there ….with special socks and “pyjamas” (called samue) to wear around the place and special slippers to go in the bathroom. (that may be an issue in the middle of the night!) We didn’t partake of the communal bath though.

Hoshokoku ryoken located just up from the old town.
Staff all dressed up, shoes off at the door and much bowing and nodding. 

This was part of a park 5 minutes up the hill from our ryoken.
We were told by a shopkeeper (that Wendy made friends with and bought nice stuff from)
that the locals go up there to drink beer and eat grilled chicken skewers from a little cafe.
So we did as well!

Wendy actually found a classy little piece of woodwork to enhance her bathroom.

Our heads were on swivels trying to take it all in.

And there were tourists…..quite a few but not outrageous.

I went back in the evening when the crowds were gone.
It was harder to get shots…but I reckon that they looked better.

Just a streetscape. So old style Japanese!

I think this is a small Ryoken down a  side street.
I was taken with the beautiful maple in the front courtyard.

The Japanese like to light their gardens and features at night.
I think it looks speccy!

The accommodation deal we had includes dinner and breakfast in traditional little eating rooms just for two, with privacy screens that make for quite intimate dining. The ryoken places a greater emphasis on a more authentic traditional experience for their guests…..and  our first meal there was just spectacular. Presentation is paramount in Japanese cuisine and the Hoshokaku Ryokan was really authentic. Waitresses dressed in traditional kimanos  served the courses like a degustation with elegance and poise….which is more than I can say about me in those Pyjamas! All in all it was very Japanese , yes with fish dishes that I did try…..a little. We were really glad we chose to experience this aspect of Japanese culture…..but really glad we also opted for traditional Western beds and toilet!

Second night’s dinner…Haider beef hot pot with veges. It was really very good…and filling.

Not much left!

This was entre and yes I ate sushi 🥴

First night’s dinner….fish on a griddle…but other things as well.

But a central theme of coming all the way up to the mountain region of Japan was to experience some of their preserved history and culture. Hence the choice of a ryoken stay…..but also our organised group tour of the UNESCO listed sites of Ainokura and Shirakawa-go. These villages are feudal style villages…rural, agricultural and rustic. They have some mod cons but essentially have preserved the architecture and ways life from  the time of the shoguns.

So after a breakfast of raw fish, tofu and green tea 🥴 (beautifully presented however) we set off  to those famous feudal villages….but not before deciding that we might skip the traditional Japanese breakfast the following morning and opt for croissants and coffee at the station instead. Traditional dinner is one thing but sardines for breakfast is not a welcome sight or experience!

As I mentioned in an earlier post, Autumn is a bit delayed this year in Japan but when we got into the high mountains it was in full swing….and brilliant colour. Japan is a very urbanised country but there are wild areas also and the mountains we travelled through were just ablaze with colour….mostly birch yellow but also splashes of red contrasted with the dark green of the pines. It is not unlike the high alpine areas of Europe….and quite mesmerising for an Australian.

Ainokura is a pretty, small and  preserved working village with thatched houses and people who still work the land. It is a bit out of the way and not many tourists visit there which makes it quite special. Shirakawa-go however is still a working village where people live their normal lives….. but the locals have tapped into the tourist trade and it is much more commercial…but still interesting. 

It was a real treat to be able to glimpse a part of their culture, history and beautiful Autumnal landscape.

On the way out of Takayama we were treated to some spectacular scenery.

I climbed to the hill to get a view of the village. Totally worth it.

They cultivate every available plot of soil.

The suspension bridge across to the village across the wide, rocky snow melt rivers reminded me a bit of Nepal although without the “beasts of burden” causing them to rock and sway.

Gorgeous time of year…specially up here.

There were mountain trout in those drains…..damn big ones!

It a was quite a long day for a couple of retirees (and there are a few about over here) but after another magnificent traditional meal (this time Haida beef hot pot) in our Japanese “pyjamas” we have turned our attention to the next leg of our journey…..Hiroshima.

And we have our fingers crossed that our bags will be there when we arrive!

From Shinagawa on the Shinkansen

One of the experiences of Japan is the famous Shinkansen or “Bullet Train”. There is an extensive network all over Japan and our “self guided” tour is making good use of them….starting with our journey to Kanazawa. 

These trains are just fantastic. They can travel up to 330kms per hour, they are futuristically styled and very comfortable….oh yes, very comfortable, particularly in the Green Car. It is much like flying (in a number of ways!) except that the seats are bigger and more spacious, there is a never ending view flashing past the window and…..no turbulence!

So sleek!

Phew!….made it!

Our purpose for visiting Kanazawa is firstly to see the world famous Kenroku-en Gardens (supposed to be one of the top three in Japan) and also to experience some of the traditional Japanese society that has been preserved…somewhat.

So off we set to negotiate the complex, confusing and frantic thing that is rail travel here in Japan and, with a few wrong turns, missed gates and with some guidance from kindly and helpful perfect strangers, we found ourselves happily ensconced on our “Kagayaki 509” bound for our next destination.

Wendy grabbed this snap from the window. Quite magnificent scenery.
But you have to be quick!

The entry to Kanazawa train station. The design is based on the traditional Japanese Tsuzumi drums.

And in no time at all we had arrived at an ultra modern station (think Penrith Plaza with trains running through) and to our stunning hotel…..just newly completed and to our very spacious and luxurious room. What a contrast it would prove to be with the old traditional Higashi District….the Geisha area of the city.

But a small aside here. When researching this trip we found many references to crowded stations and trains and the nightmare of manhandling lots of large luggage in such conditions. But we also found out about a facility the Japanese have created to ship your large bags (by dedicated courier) to meet you at your destination. Hmm sounded a bit “out there” but we decided, what the heck we’ll give it a go. What’s the worst that could happen?🥴  So, with some apprehension, we sent our bags off ahead. It felt a bit like waving kids off on the bus on their first school camp but it meant that we could travel with hand luggage only.

Wendy did say (constantly, as I fretted about the bags’ location) “trust the system, trust the system”. And, as we entered the lobby, and to my great relief, guess what was waiting for us there? Yes…trust the system. So we are going to do it for the next leg as well. I guess we’ll see.

Again we used public transport (a touristy loop bus) to take us around the city (much larger than we anticipated) to visit points of interest. The Geisha District was quaint and well preserved and we did spy a couple of Geishas hurrying through the alleys and tiny streets ….. but it was also full of tourists and tour groups that fill and crowd places up pretty damn fast. So we appreciated the world of Old Japan as best we could then decided to head off …..and got lost again!! Wrong bus (it was a local one) and was it crowded! I refer you to my previous comments regarding etiquette and ignoring full on body contact. We were so tight that Wendy couldn’t even get her arms down to reach for her mask!  But somehow, more by luck than management, we ended up at the famous Omicho Fish and Vegetable market that we were planning to visit the next day anyhow. How serendipitous! 

In a side street - just where people live ..before we found the area proper.

We saw two or three of these but wasn’t quick enough to get a good shot.
Besides it looks better walking away..and that bloke 🤷‍♂️

Reminded me a bit of Venice when the cruise ships are in. 

Kanazawa is famous for gold leaf….they even put it on ice creams!

After our bus “experience”, and the gallons of alcohol hand sanitiser we splashed around (nurses and germs don’t mix!) we decided to catch a taxi to the object of our visit, the gardens - best $20 we ever spent!

The old adage  that “a picture is worth a thousand words” has much merit in the case of the Kenroku-en Gardens. So I’ll finish this post with a very small selection of such pictures to give some idea. 

Oh and yes..speaking of ideas, Wendy has gathered a few …..to implement at our Fairways House😉

Kenroku-en. The Garden of the six sublimes.
Spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, water and views.

The Autumn colour is just getting going…but patchy. 
Apparently it’s later this year. Global warming?

These structures are ropes to train the branches of the tree in the way the gardener designs. It is really common to see.

Labour intensive. The gardens are immaculately manicured.

These “Tori” gates are over a path leading to a temple near the garden.

Trains, Trains, Trains inTokyo

 After a night at Rydges Sydney Airport (it’s so convenient being just across the road for a morning flight) and breakfast in the lounge (nice) our flight on Japan Airlines was the beginning of our Japanese adventure. It’s amazing how quickly “one” forgets what the experience of being crammed into a quite small aluminium tube with hundreds of others is like. But it all comes flooding back as you are being stampeded at the gate and shuffling down the aisle, dragging the carry on bags and hoping the overhead bin is not full yet. It ain’t glamorous for those turning right but it does get you to where you want to be….in a hurry and safely…for the most part. JAL service and food was good and the flight was really quite uneventful…..’til we encountered immigration in Tokyo.

Qantas lounge … noice!

The lines were horrendous but I was quietly a bit chuffed that I had made the effort to access the “Visit Japan” website and pre-arrange immigration. It was really very efficient and when a QR code was provided to put on the phone, well it was like a “free pass” through immigration - great.

Only one problem. I had a QR code…..but Wendy didn’t!!! I assumed that, after nearly 50 years, we were a “job lot” ….all our info and declarations on the one QR code. NOT SO. One code per person….aaaagghh!!

“You…Anthony, said the quite stern immigrations officer, have passed through the gate…..but you Mrs Wendy must go back and fill in the required paperwork!!!!”

“I’ll just go back and help” I ventured …..but no, the gate slammed shut and I was on the other side of the barrier. 

Like Running Bear and Little White Dove, we were calling out to each other (not so much songs of love but more like hotel names, dates and locations) much to the amusement of the thousands in the line watching on. Luckily she refused to go to the end of the line to start all over and filled out the forms at a table so that we were re-united in fairly good time….and without too many “hard feelings”… I think.

We had planned to train it to the hotel but it was late, we were tired and the train was packed, so we got a cab. 

The hotel gardens are quite speccy…..especially at night when they are lit up beautifully. 

The hotel garden provided a tranquil respite from the bustle of Tokyo.

Our first real day in Tokyo was organising “clericals”…..converting our JR voucher to rail passes and tickets for the nine Shinkansen journeys we would be taking. Just as well because the cars were filling up fast.

And then it was off on the local train network to a seaside  town called Kamakura about 45 minutes away. It is known for its large temples and huge Buddha but has also become a popular tourist destination for locals and visitors alike. It reminds me a bit of Leura…only with lots more people….and culture!

We really enjoyed the differences….the architecture, the food and the sights and sounds of such a foreign place to us. Even though it was only the first day, there was no escaping that we are somewhere much more exotic than good old Oz.

A family home down a lane at Kamakura

The food stalls were…intriguing.

….and yummmmy!

We found a less popular temple….quiet and empty.
We learn’t the correct way to leave shoes and bow to show respect.

In our negotiating the complex and somewhat overwhelming Tokyo train network (there are a number of different companies and lines) we were really taken with the kindness and helpfulness of the Japanese people. We had numerous offers of help, excellent advice when requested (the translation apps are wonderful) and one lady, a waitress in a cafe, went so far above and beyond that Wendy decided that we needed to give her a small bunch of flowers. Some things overcome all language barriers!

Our plan to spend time in different parts of Japan meant that Tokyo was going to be less explored than it clearly deserves. A couple of days is never going to be nearly enough but we crammed in as much as we could. Shopping in Shinjuku (they have some seriously fine shopping there) checking out the famous Shibuya “scramble crossing” watching the go carts race through and a model dashing out in the traffic between light changes to pose and pout for her photographer.

This is a pano shot to try and capture movement….the scramble.

She clearly was not put off by crowds…or traffic!

These go karts came flying past at intervals. We got these ones when the lights turned red.

We “trained it” all around the networks, getting lost, stampeded and crammed into already too full train carriages ….that might just squeeze in one more!! We found out about the etiquette of no personal space (back packs at the front and ignore body contact). We were gathered up in the stampede of people moving like vast herds of wildebeest on the Serengeti, through the huge railway stations that Tokyo is famous for ….but can’t really be appreciated without actually experiencing them. 

In central, downtown Tokyo we saw (but only from a distance and through guarded gates) the Imperial Palace. We walked miles to see the Nishubashi bridge that was being repaired and had closed access for photos - drat! And, by mid afternoon, our years were catching up with us…..we were pooped.

The next stage of our Journey is to Kanazawa on a Shinkansen rain for the first time, but our impressions of Tokyo from our brief but intense stay are really positive. The people are polite, kind, thoughtful and helpful. They are socially very responsible. They are clean, the roads are clean the trucks and busses and taxis are clean  - there is no rubbish, no graffiti, no etched glass in train carriages. In fact even the floor of the train is shiny! The taxi drivers and workers wear uniforms and white gloves and you are expected to clear your table of rubbish and stuff when you eat at a cafe. It is quite a different place to any others that we have experienced.

Oh….and they eat a lot.

We wandered off the main streets down little back alleys to find some local eateries.
They were often hidden away, upstairs and frequented by locals.

The translator app has been a marvellous…especially when the pictures look a bit suss.
Meant we were able to pass on the crumbed octopus balls!

Quaint, traditional and very tasty. I’m still on my”L’s” with chopsticks.