Canada’s Atlantic Coast - Lunenburg and surrounds.

 Lunenburg, the UNESCO listed port village, just south of Halifax is renowned for its character, charm and well, its quaintness.  I have no other word for it. It’s just quaint…quaint…quaint…...until your eyes hurt!

We arrived latish in the afternoon to our new “digs” above a deli/restaurant….The Salt Shaker Inn and Deli. There are only 4 rooms and yes, they are up stairs (22 of them) again. The actual setting is very central set right in the heart of the old town, and in a very old building, and being above a nice deli has its advantages. But the view…..that view from our windows is a stunner!

The view from our window across the harbour with brightly coloured warehouses in the foreground, the famous “Bluenose” sailing vessel on the right. The breeze off the water was beautiful.

We went over to the golf course on the the side of the harbour (which isn’t far) for this shot of picturesque Lunenburg in the late afternoon sun. The green place in the middle of shot above Adams and Nickle is The Salt Shaker Inn. Our two rooms are the windows in that green building.

It was not too busy…but buzzing a bit, with people on decks out from the restaurants enjoying their Sunday in the warm weather having a few drinks and meals together. And after a bit or a stroll around the village to orient ourselves, we decided to join them. How pleasant, how couth, how civilised !

More lobster, more beer and more cheer…..and what a setting to enjoy it in!

A walk to the golf course (yes that’s it across the water) in the morning to get a better view of  the village revealed even more more to this little place than we had imagined. No wonder it is a UNESCO site. The following are just a few shots from our wanders around the town but in no way can they capture the essence of this place. They provide just a hint of what can only be really appreciated when seen for real.

Someone’s  house just walking along the street. Many of them in town have plaques with the year and who built it…..often some successful “master mariner.”

Shops in the street.

An art gallery.

A couple of sheds down beside the wharf where the fishing boats tie up. It is still a working port with  fishing boats, sailing vessels, chandlers and warehouses an integral part of the scene

The “Bluenose” is a famous sailing vessel moored at the wharf right in the centre of town.
It is still a working “tall ship” taking tourists out for a taste of old travel under sail.
It was fascination to watch the crew clamber up and down the rigging of those very tall masts.

We spent an exploring day in the town (so much to see and many, many ladies shops) and then ventured out to the local area ……to Mahoney Bay and Peggy’s Cove.

It was quite a bit further than we thought (who knows why?) but it was worth the drive. Mahoney Bay is a village in a cove…..with three churches no less…all vying for the tallest spire, but it was Peggy’s Cove that has the reputation for being very photogenic. And it is. But not the lighthouse so much. 

True it is located out on an impressive rounded rock headland (with no guard rails, but warnings that people have died on said rocks) but I couldn’t understand why so many people were focussed on this light house…and its not a very big one at that.

Peggy’s Cove lighthouse…not all that large….or interesting.

I found the tiny little fishing cove nestled between the rocks and the inlet much more interesting. With it’s Nova Scotia style houses tucked right into the shore and the cove, and its working fishing boats entering and leaving to cove, the fishermen fixing their pots and working on their dinghy’s…..it was quite a fascinating short while that I spent there trying to take it all in. One of the fisherman was unloading baskets of fresh lobster on the dock an selling them to passers by. Talk about fresh!!

Pictures of this little cove with its Nova Scotia buildings and fishing boats and rocky shoreline….much more interesting!

Not the type of coastal scene that we are familiar wth.

That red vessel is heading out in a few minutes…..going to either lay or collect lobster pots. The one behind at the end of the wharf is unloading his catch…with an audience.

So our visit to the Atlantic Coast, and Nova Scotia is coming to a close and the time has come to move on ……tomorrow. And probably it is time, because the wind has picked up tremendously and there is smoke from the quite serious bushfires blanketing the view of our beautiful harbour. We had a brief but fleeting experience of this maritime state and its images and experiences will stay with us for a long time.

Vancouver here we come!

Canada’s Atlantic Coast - PEI

After negotiating the traffic jam around a police “incident” in suburban Halifax (something about a guns and drug bust complete with flashing lights and crime scene tape) we headed North to Prince Edward Island. 

On one hand it gave us chance to check out the scenery and countryside on the way, but also, to visit the Anne of Green Gables museum and visitors centre. I’ve never read the books but Wendy Margaret has and our librarian, Wendy A,was really keen to visit  this site of literary significance. I’m sure that Lucy Maud  Montgomery would have had no concept of the small industry that has grown up around her literature and her life. She was clearly a very talented person and a much loved author whose characters have been immortalised in print and in film.

Our new vehicle, nicknamed “The Beast” is a Chevrolet Tahoe ….. and it is a monster!!!

I’d organised a people mover on our arrival but, at 1.30am at the airport,  the girl at the counter offered us a brand new Chevy 4x4, as she didn’t have any people movers…...at no extra charge. 

 I was about to say, “well, what are the other options?” …..to give myself just a bit of “consideration “ time when, out of the blue, Michael says “yes, we’ll take it.” 😳

What??  I couldn’t tell if he was just impatient with my carefulness or really wanted the “Beast” but, at that ungodly time of the night, the deed was done …..and we were off.

The Beast! Our not insignificant amount of luggage was just “swallowed” by this monster and we were very comfortable in its roomy, climate controlled interior.
Any feedback to the engineers I might provide if asked…..”could there be a few more cup holders included next time?”🥴 

To get to Prince Edward Island (named by the British after turfing the French out) we crossed the longest bridge in Canada, the Confederation Bridge, 12.9 kilometres long over open water. Impressive!

The Confederation Bridge from New Brunswick to PEI. It’s quite a feat of engineering, very long with curved arches to let the ships through. The $50 toll was a bit of a surprise….but that was for the return trip as well!

Anne of Green Gables museum. It’s set in beautiful countryside of lakes, rolling hills and ploughed fields.
It’s real farming country.

After spending a good while at the museum, we spent a further few hours at the Anne of Green Gables visitors centre. Yes, a large visitors’ Mecca….and really quite well done. Then, after a pretty full day we headed to Charlottetown, the largest town on the island…and quaint. It’s in the old part of town, where we are based at “The Harbour House”….on the third floor with no lift…..again!

It is a historic town….and quaint. The architecture and colour schemes make it very clear that we are a long way from home. The Maritime states, as they are known here, have a completely different look and feel about them….the landscape, the architecture and the feel.

The Harbour House. I could feel the stares, like knives in my back, as we stood, in the foyer staring up at  the stairs…..all three flights of them! Luckily we are travelling “light” and left some of our mountain of luggage back in Vancouver with Erin🥴

It was a shame we were only one night in Charlottetown as we quickly came to enjoy its hospitality…..but the next part of our fleeting visit to the far side of Canada beckoned.

The East coast is renowned for its seafood….and it is certainly being taken advantage of on this trip…by most of the party.

Canada’s Atlantic Coast - Halifax

 Canada is a big country….very big, and to cross it takes a long time, even in a plane….or two.

We left Vancouver 30 minutes late which was a little concerning given that our connecting flight to Halifax was supposed to leave just 44 minutes after landing in Calgary. But not to worry.  

As soon as the “fasten seatbelt” light went out, the scramble was on. Jump up into the aisle, grab gear from overhead bin, load self with bags and parcels like a mule…. de-plane; hasten quickly up the gangway, pushing old ladies and cleaners out of the way; turn right at the directions of Air Canada staff frantically waving us through the throng of other travellers …..and hurriedly race down the gangway and board the connecting plane at the gate next door, constantly checking that all four members of the party….and their goods and chattels are present. Pheww!

I’m not sure I’d recommend it as a regular approach to travel itineraries….but it worked a treat for us this time!

That plane in the window….well that’s the one we just flew on from Vancouver to Calgary.
And our  transfer from that one to this one was so fast that the seats we were sitting in over there, I’m sure, would still be warm !!

All in all, six hours flying time….which means Canada is a big country! And with a 4 hour time zone difference we ended up in our heritage listed digs, the Halliburton, at 2am…..but 10pm where we had just come from. These time zones are creating havoc with our circadian rhythms!

At breakfast in a little cafe down the street. The Halliburton is the brown brick building in the distance.

Halifax is a city steeped in history, much of it violent. It started as a trading centre but quickly became a fortress harbour for the major players of the last few centuries…..the English, French and Americans. The local indigenous people didn’t stand a chance but did manage to negotiate a treaty in the early days….something our First Nations people are still seeking.

From the 1700’s to the Second World War, it has been, and still is a military strong hold and base with a huge fortress called “The Citadel” dominating the hill behind the waterfront. Walking around the old part of the city, it is clear that they have preserved and value their history with little plaques on buildings and public places. It is a modern city in many places but has retained its “old world” character very well.

The fortress they call “The Citadel”. Halifax saw some brutal times.

They preserve their history very well.

The streetscape and architecture is really interesting. It is a hallmark of the old part of the city where we are located.

Off to Prince Edward Island tomorrow in our newly acquired Chevrolet Tahoe…..more info on that to come!

Into the Wild (with apologies to Jon Krakau)

 Our stay in Victoria has come to an end marked by a quirky hotel (again), some fantastic meals and some unplanned experiences, including an afternoon in a Scotch Whisky distillery with some seriously good “product”. 

Erin has left the party, back on the ferry to Vancouver, and we are headed North, for Campbell River ….and “bear country”. We are assured by locals, when they ask about our plans, that the places we are heading to are quite special….some really impressive, untouched wilderness.

But before we headed off, on our last night, eating a meal at the pub, Wendy A looked up and exclaimed….”look at that…..the road is lifting into the air!” And so it was. The Johnson St bascule bridge was being raised for ship traffic and it was quite a “show/traffic stopper”

We couldn’t resist a stroll across the bridge after dinner and after that display of engineering brilliance….although some of the party were a little less enthusiastic than others😉

It’s quite an impressive sight to see the road go skyward as you’re enjoying your evening repast.

And so, to the North of the island…..not North to Alaska, but in that direction up highway 19, over the 50th parallel, via some quaint settlements and beautiful Vancouver Island scenery. 

The organisation for our trip into the wilds was seamless. Paperwork, indemnities and information about what to expect was all provided in a folder….but nothing really prepares you for the Canadian wilderness…..such a contrast to our own ancient, red, flat, dry and dusty continent.

After a night in Campbell River ( the pubs do pretty good food here and we tried the national dish, Poutine….just chips and gravy) we headed to the float plane terminal just a few minutes away.

One of the float planes taking the guests out to the lodge.

Taking off. It is a surprisingly quick launch!

None of us have ever been on a float plane before so this was quite a novel experience….although not for Canadians. They are quite a common form of transport in their remote areas.

There were 28 passengers, 14 on each of the two planes an all guests of Knight Inlet Lodge. And, apart from the small matter of numbers on planes that was rectified fairly smartly, it was a professional process, especially as we were the first group of the season.

It was about a half hour flight to the lodge over some very remote and rugged terrain which, we were informed by one of the lodge crew that Wendy A be-friended, was “impossible to walk out of” ….and we didn’t need any convincing! 

The closest thing we have in Australia to it would be the wilds of the Franklin River in Tasmania.

Banking hard on our approach to Glendale Cove and Knight Inlet.
The lodge can be seen tucked up against the shore in the distance

View of the lodge as we were “taxiing” in. The guest rooms are in the building on the left.

And after we landed and de-planed….not so elegantly on a rocking plane and moving dock, it was all business. Check-in, orientation, room and gear allocation and then group activities listed on the schedule. I quite liked the way it all went actually….a bit like a well run school camp.

Everything there is barged or flown in….everything…and it was marvellous to see how comfortable they had made this lodge in the wilderness. The food was good quality and plentiful….the coffee machines that got quite a workout, made great coffee and hot chocolate….(very welcome after a few hours on the cool water)…..and the rooms were plain but really comfortable…with hot showers….luxury!

But, back to the first day. Morning tea, get geared up and set off on the first activity…an estuary tour in a light skiff with a 25 hp outboard for distance and a little electric motor (a trawling motor I’m told) for drifting quietly near the bears. 

Now the gear was not simple. Weather proof, warm duds and jacket, life preserver, binoculars and gum boots if you chose. Not glamorous its true….but certainly necessary out on that chilly water in the breeze.

Geared up for our excursions. Fashionable ….and effective.
Near the flower pots in the background were bird feeders with nectar…and lots of tiny humming birds.
It’s really hard to get a shot of a hovering humming bird!

Within minutes of heading over to the estuary, our guide, Effie ( a Dutch girl living in Canada because she is smitten with bears and the wild) had spotted a bear and her cub digging for barnacles and clams on the low tide shore. Really? We were quite aware that going out to find wildlife is mostly fraught with dashed expectations …..and disappointment……but here we were, minutes in and up fairly close and personal with Flora and her cub Fauna. How wonderful!

Flora and her two year old cub Fauna scratching around in the intertidal zone for food.

 We were about 40 or so metres away, so the long 200ml lens as at its max for photos, but through the binoculars it felt like you could almost reach out and touch them. Just fantastic …..and on our first outing!

Back for lunch and a quick “pit stop” and then the next activity. We were supposed to do a tour of the inlet on a larger boat, but as the wind was getting up and the water becoming choppy, Wendy and I opted for a guided tour of the forest and bear habitat. Mariners we are not, and the thought of a few hours on a rollicking small craft on an angry sea was not for us. 

But Mike and Wendy were up for it and came home a bit wet, but happy…..Mike not so much! 

When asked about the highlight of the tour, Wendy A nominated that it was when Eddy, the captain, backed the boat into a waterfall …..and we all got wet! Confirmed our decision.

The forest walk was great. So quiet, peaceful and remote. They took us out to little trails where the bears go, and to a scratching tree that they think has been used by bears for decades. We could see the fur and claw marks all around the tree. Reminded everyone of Baloo while he sings “The Bear Necessities” in The Jungle Book.

Effie and the “rubbing tree”. Some the big male bears stand higher than the scratch marks on the tree.
She is showing us video of the bears activity taken by sensor cameras strapped to trees in the forest.

And then back for a hot lunch before setting out on another tour of the estuary but this time at high tide when the sedge grass is down to the water.

Mike and Wendy B elected to stay behind on this excursion (it had been a big day) but Wendy A and I headed out again with Tamara as our guide. And, lo and behold……there are three bears that we stealthily approached with our electric trawling motor and spent some time observing. They were quite unconcerned by our presence and it was just magic.

At high tide the bears feed on the sedge grass along the edges of the cove. Apparently it helps get their digestive systems going after their long, Winter hibernation.

The lodge crew are really professional and it was hard to say if they are always like this or it was because it was the first group of the season. I’m pretty confident that it is the former.

Pre-dinner drinks then dinner is very civilised and, what is also a nice touch, the “crew” of this whole organisation eat with the guests. We are all in the dining room together mingling and sharing our meals….which on this occasion was fish or roast beef with Yorkshire pudding….with blueberry cheesecake foe dessert. Fantastic!

We sat with Brent who is in charge of keeping the electricity (diesel and battery generators) water and sewerage all going properly which is quite a responsibility. It also turns out that he is quite well travelled and we spent a very pleasant hour or so getting to know each other. So much so that the next morning at breakfast Wendy A insisted he have his meal with us again which he was happy to do.

After dinner there was a lecture on Bear Cubs and there were more than a few nodding off in chairs. We were so tired after such a “full on” day that we crashed early …..and didn’t even notice when the generator went off at 10pm!

Our last excursion was an early morning estuary tour in search of bears again….and what a strike rate. Not only did we get really quite close to Flora and her cub, we happened across another female bear with two cubs born just this year. They were so young and vulnerable, and she was a bit more wary for them but we go a good view from about 60 or 70 metres away.

Early morning on the cove was serene.
We drifted so quietly past these ruins of the wharf of an old abandoned salmon factory.
There was quite a settlement here 100 years ago. 

This mother bear is not often sighted….particularly now that she has two, very young cubs. We were a little further away, but such a wonderful sight to witness.

How fortunate had we been. Not only did we see bears up quite close (in the safety of the skiffs) but we had the most comfortable and memorable experiences you could wish for.

And so is the nature of things, that all good times must come to a close, and we were due to catch the ferry 150km down the coast at Nainamo at 3.15pm. So, it was quickly back to the lodge, grab our gear and load up into the De Havilland “Otter” for the trip back to Campbell River.

The plane came in and landed with a splash and a roar of “reverse thrust” right in front of us ……so strange to see such a thing…..and before we knew it we were airborne, back to civilisation and to resume our travels in Canada.

Our chariot arrived…steeply diving from the mountains then levelling off for a perfect landing. 
It’s always comforting to see a perfect landing!

A funny thing happened. As we were loading, Brent, the crew member we had come to know a bit, said to me, as I was loading last… “go for shotgun…the pilot will be fine with it”.
So I did…much to the chagrin of some other passengers …..but not my lot. Top trip back!

Happy campers…but it’s time to move on.😞

Vancouver Island - British Columbia

 Our last day in Vancouver city for a while was spent, as always, packing and organising, but we did find time to visit one of Vancouver’s best loved attractions…Stanley Park. The girls have had some big shopping days recently, so elected to pass on this one and stay back for some much needed R & R. But Mike and I were keen, especially to give the e-bikes a try. 

Vancouver is a very bike friendly and oriented city so it makes sense that they have “share/rent” bikes all over the place…..but they also have bikes to hire around the park. So, e-bikes it was ….. and weren’t they great. We found very quickly why they are so popular. The park is huge with a bike/pedestrian path all around (maybe 10kms) and criss-crossed with a network of other, joining paths and areas of interest but with pedal assisted electrical power, we didn’t even raise a sweat. It’s a great way to get around and a great way to see quite an impressive part of the city.

The path caters for bikes and pedestrians. It is a great way to get around.

Points of interest are dotted all around the route. Vancouverians are very proud of their city and history…and rightly so.

The e-bikes are terrific!

Never miss a chance for some “peaceful contemplation”.

Victoria, Vancouver Island

After collecting our people mover vehicle from the local depot first thing, we headed to the ferry terminal at Tsawasssen. The ferries here, as in Europe, are very large and impressive and make the journey through the straits to our next destination most enjoyable…..especially as the sea was as flat as a tack!

Our Chrysler Pacifica, a spacious and comfortable mode of transport.

We stopped in Sidney (yes that is the correct spelling), a quaint ex fishing town, on the way to Victoria for some lunch and a look around.
Erin just could not resist a re-enactment of this street sculpture!

Our “digs” at the Swan’s Hotel in Victoria is another “quirky” establishment with the rooms created out of an old waterfront warehouse. We were saddened to see that the city centre area seems to have gone right down hill since our last visit in 2012. We had a “wander around” to reminisce, but the amount of homelessness and poverty was quite confronting. I suppose all modern cities have an underbelly but we did wonder if the recent de-criminalisation of marijuana has had an impact. 

Swan’s Hotel was a flasher establishment ten years ago but I suppose age and Covid have had their effect. 
But it is located in the heart of town and has a quirkiness about it.

The next day however presented a more familiar side of Victoria, a small city with a strong British heritage. It is the capital of BC with many grand buildings and the seat of government. In our wandering around the more “touristy” part of town we found restaurants, markets, shops, pubs all clustered around a compact working harbour. As we strolled around the foreshore to Fisherman’s Wharf, there was constant activity on the water, ferries, tugs, barges and float planes, regularly taxiing, taking off and landing in the harbour. There was even a control tower directing the traffic.

Ice creams after lunch on the Water Taxi heading back to our hotel on the other side of the harbour.

Fisherman’s Wharf is a collection of quaint, colourful houseboats with restaurants and shops dotted around the floating dock.
Some Canadians seemed to have embraced this style of living.

A visit to the Butchart Gardens is a “must” in any visit to Vancouver Island. Even for non-gardeners or unenthusiastic gardeners, it is mighty impressive. To transform an old limestone quarry to such a beautiful space is an achievement indeed….and it is still a family affair.

Words and/or pictures cannot do it justice…..at all. Mayfield Garden in Oberon will probably be very similar when it has 100 years of maturity and it is the closest thing we have to this wonderful place.

Wendy and I were impressed when we visited last time in Autumn, but this display of rhododendrons, mass plantings of tulips a the whole garden just bursting into life was something to behold. The following shots are just a peak at what we experienced.

The sunken garden reclaimed from and old limestone quarry.

Just one of the tranquil scenes from the Japanese section of this huge garden.
The familiar sound of the shishi-odoshi gently clonking in the background made us all think of Val.

Bloomin’ lovely!